Thong Nai Pan Today

Thong Nai Pan Noi

The weather has not been that good in Thong Nai Pan for a weeks now, and it has been disappointing for visitors who normally expect perfect weather end of July early August. The South West monsoon which affects the West Coast of Thailand June through to September doesn't normally affect Koh Phangan. However, so far this year things have been a bit different with frequent rain, strong winds and big waves on the sea.

It is not all doom and gloom, the weather today on the 10th August 2015 is as good as it gets here in Thong Nai Pan with bright cloudless skies, no rain, and brilliant blue water - perfect for swimming and laying on the beach. That is exactly what everyone is doing today and the beach is packed, particularly Thong Nai Pan Noi which is growing in popularity every year.

More good news is that the forecast for the next couple of weeks is more of the same. So if you are pondering where to go in Thailand over next couple of weeks then come to Thong Nai Pan, the weather is hot, the sea is calm and the beer is ice cold. Be sure though to book a room before you come as nearly everywhere is running at 100% capacity and you may have a long search if you try to find an available room when you arrive - there are still rooms but you need to hunt around a bit to find one.

Thong Nai Pan Yai

More Road Works

The section of the Thong Nai Pan Road from the 7-11 to past Wat Pho is being pulled up and is being replaced. You can see the biggest Yang in the centre of the picture.

At a guess they are going to replace the crumbling road all the way up the hill to Bird and Monkey Trekking/Jungle Flight where the new road finished. Work has been nicely timed to coincide with the peak summer tourist season. A bit of rain and the top piece will become unpassable.

In other road news the Bottle Beach Road improvement has started. This will make a concrete road all the way from the ferry to Sunrise Villa. It will also open up the north of the island to more tourism by day trippers. Those staying in Thong Nai Pan will have the option of sunning themselves on the stunning beach of Bottle Beach.

Goodbye Bamboo

Bamboo Restaurant opened its doors circa 2006. Ever since its inception Pi Gan stood at the helm of a popular establishment that served up great Thai food and that became one of the meeting places of beach folk in Thong Nai Pan Noi. Sadly ‘Bamboo’, as it became affectionately known, closed in early 2015. Gan has left to pursue a new catering project in Koh Chang.

There was a time when I ate dinner at Bamboo 5 times a week. Pi Gan always ready to extend special hospitality to long stay visitors, offered us a small discount on all food. At that time in 2008, there was still a hippy and fun vibe to the beach. Lots of people came every year to hang out on the beach. There were cheap bungalows at Sandee Bungalow, Star Huts and Tapan Noi; the Jungle Bar and Hideaway had big party nights once a week; Rasta Baby was keeping it old skool; and Rasananda was yet to be built.

Pi Gan set up a typical Thai style restaurant - concrete floor, bamboo furniture, raised area with seating on cushions, lots of potted plants, lanterns on the tables, open front and pictures of the King. The restaurant was on the main village road just opposite Again and Again. Both these cheap eating places stood sentinel at the entrance to the beach road. Here people gathered to eat cheap Thai food as well as to have a few drinks.

Bamboo hosted birthday parties, leaving parties, a Thai reggae band as well other performances. Gan was always up for a party. It was never too late for another tasty Penang curry or cold Chang. No group too big.

She specialised in Thai food. She hailed from near the Laos border and bought this north east influence into the kitchen. She made a decent glass noodle salad, spicy laab and Penang curry. I loved her massaman curry. I also liked her burger and fries.

In 2008 Gan included a fruit bar onto the side of the restaurant. She added awesome shakes and smoothies to her repertoire of great food and drink. This was probably the peak of the restaurant. Rasananda opened in 2008, Santhiya and Panviman extended their room numbers in the next couple of years; and then, Buri Rasa opened its doors. At the same time Star Huts shut, Jungle Bar shut, Tapan Noi shut, Hideaway shut and Sandee Bungalow gave up the backpacker angle.

From 2008 Noi underwent gentrification of a sort. The number of backpackers on the beach went down, and the number of higher paying guests increased. These customers were more drawn to Luna and later Better Than Sex with their more ‘refined’ brand of cuisine. Old Skool style was out and ‘sophisticated’ was in. Bamboo was a victim of this change in demographic.

Many bars and restaurants not just in Thailand but elsewhere have a life span. Styles and trends change. Those places that re-invent themselves periodically keep going. For a while Bamboo represented the Zeitgeist of Thong Nai Pan Noi. That spirit has changed and Bamboo has been emptied.

It is not a sad goodbye as Pi Gan has already moved to a beach in Koh Chang and has set up a popular beachfront restaurant. It is sure to be a big success.

Respect goes out to Pi Gan for all those curries and to Sam for finding Pi Gan in Koh Chang.